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Australia, the magazine : Australia, the magazine
Luke Burgess 53 plates & produce expanded into wild sh and was one of the rst to sh speci cally for orange roughy. "It was over on that very rst day," says Rockli sadly, referring to the fact that orange roughy was over shed because of its long life cycle and low breeding rates. In the mid-1980s, Petuna started farming salmon and, in 1991, ocean trout. As wild sheries have struggled with sustainability issues and licence buy-backs by governments a empting to manage the resource, sh farming, or aquaculture, is booming. Petuna has a million sh in Macquarie Harbour and hopes to double that in the next three years. Petuna's ocean trout start life nearly 300 kilometres away at an inland farm in Cressy in Tasmania's northern midlands. Ocean trout belong to the same species as the more widely known rainbow trout but they are fa ened in salt water. e sh have been in Australia since early last century -- and they thrive in Tasmania's icy inland streams -- but they don't survive wild in the ocean for reasons that are not well understood. Rockli says that Tasmanian shing industry is "miles ahead of anybody else" in terms of strategies to protect the environment. Petuna has limited the number of sh farmed per square metre and it lms the sea oor to check for damage from faeces and excess feed. e company also plans to install underwater cameras to detect when the sh stop feeding to avoid unused pellets being sca ered. "It's 100 percent sustainable," Rockli says. "[ e industry] should be here forever, the way we're doing it." And, although there has been some controversy over the dramatic growth in the use of antibiotics to control disease in Tasmanian sh farms, Petuna's ocean trout are not fed antibiotics as adult sh. 'If you need to feed antibiotics," says Rockli , "then there's something wrong with the way you're farming." In the beginning, Wakuda would o en cure the sh a li le, particularly if the texture was so , by salting it brie y, and he has experimented with cooking oils, timing and temperature. " e recipe has changed over four times," he says. " e sh is more consistent now. We don't cure it any more. No need." e trout is simply cooked in a light olive oil mixed with grapeseed oil. e sh is immersed in the oil mixed with lightly crushed garlic and herbs, covered with plastic lm and cooked for 25 minutes in an oven at about 50-55 degrees Celsius, then le to cool. e ends of each llet tend to become overcooked and are used at sta meals; the remainder provides ve to six portions per side. e slices are dipped in konbu (dried kelp) and served on nely shredded fennel with daikon (long radish) and shiso cress. e white plate is do ed with ocean trout roe avoured with sake and soy. e end result is a dish that mixes salty, silky, crisp and sweet elements. On this evening, the con t of ocean trout is the fourth course, a er scampi served three ways and before ravioli of Queensland crab with tomato and basil vinaigre e. e con t of Petuna trout is the one constant on the menu and is regularly described as Wakuda's signature dish. A llet of trout from the catch that Wakuda saw pulled from Macquarie Harbour 80 hours earlier is delivered to a woman in her 30s from Darlinghurst who is celebrating her last week in Sydney before moving to New York. She puts her fork in her mouth and sighs. "I think I'm going to miss Sydney," she says. From the edge of the world to the cu ing edge of cuisine, the sh's journey has come to its end. "THEY SHINE" Peter Rockliff and Wakuda Tetsuya inspect a Macquarie Harbour catch of ocean trout.